A
three show monster that ravages the South. Jesus, I've already bungled
the opening day by forgetting that I lost my wallet and driver's
license two weeks ago, which makes renting a car rather difficult.
I was out last night until 4:30 and I feel like a champion, despite.
A sadly misguided champion, but still, an overcomer, dammit.
So I'm sitting in
NYC waiting for my girl Rolanda at the Tennessee DMV to fax my driving
record so I can finally get one of those hot NY driver's licenses.
The fact that I have not procured this document in over two years
of residency is disturbing, but there's a kielbasa and cheddar omelette
on the way to my apartment right now. I'm truly looking forward
to having another ID photo taken.
My Dad's wife gave
me an amazing electric kettle for my birthday. It boils copious
amounts of boiled water very quickly, which I make tea with.
Waiting for the government
to come to my aid, I purchase two fine novels today: The Corrections
by Jonathan Franzen and Naked by David Sedaris. If I have to take
the train to South Carolina tonight, these will come in handy. The
Amtrak website is fucked up again, understandably.
Ahh, the door buzzer;
the omelette. The chocolate milkshake.
Next day. I show
up in front of Penn Station with three guitars, an amplifier, a
pedal board, a suitcase, a backpack and a big box of CD's. I have
been assured by my loyal Amtrak representative that porters will
be there to help. I wait twenty minutes; no porters. I pay a homeless
fellow twenty bucks to help me carry my stuff to the baggage check,
where I am curtly informed that my baggage cannot be checked without
a ticket, which I have not yet procured for obvious reasons. Under
threat of confiscation by the police, I abandon my formidable pile
of stuff and make a dash to the electronic ticket kiosk. It will
not accept my reservation number. I find a porter (lounging, quite
comfortably, by the baggage check) and give him ten dollars to watch
my stuff while I wait in line for a ticket. Forty minutes later
I reach the front of the line, where I am kindly informed that I
will not be able to make my train. I am re-routed on an express
train to DC. I return to find my porter livid about the waiting.
I give him another ten and we head for the train.
I relieve myself
of twenty more dollars to another porter in DC and promptly head
to the bar for an hour of heavy contemplation. Four hours old, the
tour is already hemorrhaging money. A call to my mother proves futile
due to lousy cell phone reception. I board the train to Greenville
at 7:25 and settle back for the ride.
I enjoy a dinner
of crab cakes in the dining car with a Mexican man named Alberto
and his traveling companion, a 75 year-old woman from Maine named
Marjorie. They are riding the train to New Orleans en route to Guadalajara,
Mexico, where they will be engaging in some sort of litigation involving
a bed and breakfast they own there. Marjorie does not trust planes
anymore after September 11; this is the first of several train rides
they will be making over the next few months.
I have ordered coffee
and asked for my check by the time all of this information finally
comes out. Alberto warmly shakes my hand as Marjorie gulps down
enough medication to neutralize a bull in heat. I retire to the
lounge car, the only smoking area on the train after 10:30. Predictably,
all the rowdies on the train have gathered here. I sit quietly reading
as the car gets louder and drunker. At one point, a guy actually
produces a guitar and begins to play. I am expecting a real 'literary
moment' until a dispute arises between those passengers who want
to hear Skynyrd and those who are content to let the young man piddle
on with his Dave Matthews-esque noodling. Needless to say, I leave
shortly thereafter.
Seven hours and 254
pages of The Corrections later, we arrive at the Greenville station.
It is completely deserted except for one exceptionally kind attendant
who helps me with my over-sized load of luggage. Then I pay for
a very enjoyable and informative cab ride with a driver who, in
79 years, has never been farther than Columbia, SC. He possesses
an astounding wealth of information about Greenville. After picking
up my rental car (my dad procured a duplicate of my TN license and
over-nighted it to the rental place), I find a hotel and sleep soundly
until 3:00.
I am reunited with my buddies in Jump, Little
Children at sound check. Evan, Johnny and Ward have learned six
of my songs and back me up beautifully, smiling and dancing all
the way. I realize about halfway through the set that my fly had
been down since the beginning. (Extra credit, they call that) Watching
the boys during their set, I am struck by what a precarious dynamic
they maintain. Very impressive. I hang around for the duration of
it and call it a night.
I high-tail it for
Nashville the next day, bright and early. I arrive to find out that
the Honorable Robert Bradley has a show at the Springwater that
night, which I gladly participate in. Afterwards, we go to a party
at a house that has huge trampoline in the backyard. My brother
JJ and I suitably exhaust ourselves and make plans for the next
record. I sleep soundly that night at Bobby B's.
My father accompanies
me the next day for the drive to Knoxville and admirably participates
in the eternal waiting that is sound check in a town where you know
no one. The show goes off again without a hitch- I am surprised
to find out that I do, indeed, have more friends in Knoxville than
I originally thought. JJ and Heather have come over for the show.
Sophie is having surgery for a knee ligament. She will stay behind
for a week of underwater physical therapy.
(Sophie is a dog.)
After dropping Peter
off in Nashville the next morning, I bust out for Atlanta, arriving
in a personal record time of 3:15. Sound check at the wonderful
Variety Playhouse is exceptionally enjoyable; I finally have time
to properly work in my lap steel and vocal arrangements to the JLC
set. They exchange a few worried looks, but ultimately humor me.
The show is the best yet; lighters aloft on "Breathe You In," sing-alongs
on "Girl On The Roof," etc. I leave the stage feeling like a rock
star, then come back to join JLC for four numbers and a failed attempt
at blues lap steel during the encore.
Afterwards, everyone
goes bowling at an all-night establishment. I am kindly boarded
by my new friends Liz, Tiffany and Carrie, who ask for nothing more
in return than a few jokes and the opportunity to darn my socks
in the morning.
And morning comes,
far too soon. I set out for my Mom's house in Cartersville and proceed
to have a wonderful three-day visit. Then another swing through
Nashville to play and hang with the Jump boys one more time. A few
more days of merriment and quality time, and I am off again homeward.
(Another personal best: 12:45 to the Lincoln Tunnel)
As of now, it looks
like I'll be heading back down South for more dates with John Mayer
and JLC in November. I have all my documents and luncheon meats
in order, so watch out. Thanks again to everybody for coming out
early and being so damn sweet. Keep the love coming; your boyfriends
might not always listen, but I do.
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